Installing Pergo flooring may look challenging, but it’s actually quite simple. Laminate flooring is known for being a great project for homeowners that love to work on home improvement projects themselves. However before you start your project read our guides “9 Steps for Successful Laminate Flooring Installation” and “5 Essential Tools for Laminate Flooirng Installation“. To start, make sure you have these flooring installation tools and supplies ready.
- Measuring tape
- Jig saw to cut laminate(w/ upside down, medium teeth)
- Undercutting Saw to undercut door jambs (vibratory undercut saw)
- Installation Kit (optional)
- Laminate flooring
- Proper underlayment
- Moldings and transition pieces
One of the simplest, but easiest ways to get a good idea of how to lay your Pergo laminate flooring is to read the instruction. Many people never open the installation instructions that come with the product. Put yourself in an elite group, read instruction! You will not regret it! You can also visit Pergo how-to pages for detailed installation instructions created for each Pergo laminate brand!
Assuming you have chosen your floor already, open the boxes and allow them to come to room temperature by letting them adjust for at least 48 hours. The room temperature should be 60 degree minimum. When the boxes are stacked, cross stack them. This will eliminate any potential warping or bending of the laminate planks.
While your floor is acclimating, you must remove all the moldings, baseboards, or heat registers on the floor that would interfere with the installation. If you decided to keep your wall base intact, right after Pergo floor installation simply cover the expansion gap with a quarter round molding.
TIP: When you purchase your laminate flooring, make sure you also purchase any thresholds, quarter round and base molding at the same time. This will save you time and money.
If the room is currently carpeted, the carpet, underpad, tack strips, and tacks must be removed. Make sure the floor is all clear, and if any floorboards are loose- nail them in, so you don’t have to deal with squeaky floors. Make sure the sub-floor is in good repair. If it is not intact, or smooth, make sure this is corrected before you lay the laminate foam underlayment. When you are ready to lay your floor, determine which way you want your floor to go. Usually, the floor will look best when laid perpendicular from the windows- the light will shine on the length of the board and all the colors and patters will be noticeable.
TIP: When you remove the planks from the boxes, analyze each one. Some planks may work better as starter pieces, while others work better everywhere. Should you find several unacceptable planks, return them to your supplier and see what can be done to assist you with your situation.
- Installing the underlayment:
It’s time to put down the underlayment. It must put down in stripes, butting but not overlapping. If it overlaps, your floor will end up uneven. The main reason for underlayment is to allow your floor to float; it will help with minor sub-floor imperfections and reduce noise. When the sub-floor is cement, vapor barrier is necessary- it prevents any potential humidity to come through the floor and ruin your Pergo.
- Installing the first row:
Start with removing the tongue of the board facing the wall. Assemble the planks so they form a straight line. At a slight angle, insert the tongue of second laminate plank into the groove of first plank until the laminate edges meet, then press downward until the joint locks. Work from left to right. Any leftovers should not be thrown away. Save them, and reuse to start the next row. The distance between the wall and the first board should be at least ¼ inch. You can use spacers between the planks and the wall to allow for the required 1⁄4 inch expansion space (2 spacers placed together,thick side to thin side, equal 1⁄4 inch). According to Pergo instruction you will need approximately one spacer per square foot of installation area. The bigger the room, the more expansion space should be left. That is necessary, because when the weather changes your floor expands and shrinks. When there is no or not enough space by the wall, your Pergo will get pressed against the wall and boards in the center of the room will buckle. That is the most common mistake during installation!
- Installing the second row:
If you are working alone, the easiest way to go is to use this method. You need to stager your first plank, to do it just cut the first plank of second row 2 feet in length and use it as your starter plank. Be sure that planks are locked properly and there is no gap between them! First click a long side of the starter plank into first row. Click next plank into the first row and lower this plank down until it is locked. Try to be as close as you can to the short side of the starter plank. Then, hit the short sides of the boards together using a tapping block. Continue to do that until you finish a row, and then start on the next one. If you are working with a group of people, it is much easier to assemble an entire row, and simply click it into the existing row all at once.
Continue to do that, all the way across the room. Measure and cut any openings in the floor, such as heat registers and doors. Also, undercut doors jambs, with a vibratory undercut saw. Remember! Never cut your laminate in the room in which you are working, because any saw dust or particles that get into the locking system of your floor could interfere with the proper functioning of the locks.
- Finishing touch:
Install floor transitions; reinstall moldings, doors, heat registers, and you’re done! Enjoy your Pergo!